Saugatuck, MI to South Haven, MI September 13, 2018

September 13-14, 2018

Moving on, we depart the beautiful village of Saugatuck heading for the next port on Lake Michigan, South Haven. A real short day with only 20 miles. Our day was a bit hazy but flat calm and in less than 2 hours we are making the turn into the breakwater leading into the inner harbor of South Haven. The marina, run by the Village of South Haven, is nice but the slip the dock master has assigned us would be a bit of a challenge for the captain to get into. I contacted the dock master and requested a slip or dock space on the face of the dock. With a bit of a delay she gave up a nice easy spot on the face of the dock. Over the next two days many Loopers would be staying at the same marina. In all I think there were 7-8 Looper boats. One Looper boat that stands out is a 35 foot power boat with a family of 6 that are full time Loopers. Yes, SIX..... two adults and four children, one special needs. This family is often on the daily Looper Forum talking about their journey. This is in fact their second time around with the mom home schooling all her children.

View from our boat up into the harbor

Back to South Haven, at the head of the harbor is a small maritime museum we decide  to visit. One of the vessels on display, and actually used to give rides on, was used in the Disney film "The Finest Hours". This is a true story about a Coast Guard rescue off the coast of Cape Cod when a ship splits in two. As luck would have it there is a free jazz festival on the town green. After dinner aboard we grab our folding chairs and head to the town green for a delightful evening of cool jazz under the stars and ice cream from the shop just across the street, really a wonderful night.

Boat from The Finest Hour

Maritime Museum

Day Sail

Jazz under the stars

The next day it turns out to be warm enough to try out one of Michigan's fine beaches. Just a short walk from the boat we drag our beach chairs and umbrella, you know the sun is not good for old people, and head for the beach. The sand is like light brown sugar. No seaweed, rocks or shells and fresh water. The water is a bit cool, it is also September 14, 2018,  however, it is as clear and clean as that of the Bahamas. We only went up to our knees but could still see our toes. The day was really a nice beach day and we figured this would be our first and last time to say we put our feet in Lake Michigan.

Gorgeous Beaches

2 Bathing Beauties

Beautiful sunsets every night

Muskegon, MI to Saugatuck, MI September 11, 2018

September 11-12, 2018

Have to say it's a bit of a challenge to write the blog more than 11 months since we were there. But here I go thanks to a few key words on our ships log. We departed Muskegon, MI at a little after 10:00 AM with sunny skies and just a light chop on the lake. Our destination is Saugatuck, MI. With only 38 miles, our run today takes just over 3 hours including the the long channel that leads to the harbor. One little fly in the ointment FOG. About 5 miles from the inlet we encountered fog. This is only the 3rd time we have had fog to deal with . Most of the time we run with the radar on so when the time comes to navigate in the soup (another word for fog) we are comfortable with relying on the radar image. Between the radar and the chart plotter we locate the entrance to the harbor and once a few hundred feet inside the entrance the fog lifts. We are able to enjoy the magnificent homes with their yachts docked out front as we make our way to Sergeant Marina located right on the edge of the village. Saugatuck Village is much like Nantucket, MA.

Harbor Entrance

As luck would have this marina only has one or two slips for visitors and when I called in the morning one opened up. Our slip was at the edge of the marina and we docked stern to the dock overlooking the little town green, clearly the best spot. After docking, time to visit the village and we had to try the ice cream. The village, only a few hundred feet from the boat offered lots of small shops. I even got Patrick a Christmas gift, a Hartford Whalers cap.  Speaking of restaurants we enjoyed dinner at Phil's, and had a wonderful meal on the little outside patio. The next day we decided to put a little different adventure into our journey,  a Dune Buggy Ride. We off load our bikes and take a 3 mile ride out of town to where the ride begins. This turned out to be very interesting. My only experience with sand dunes is Cape Cod. These sand dunes are way bigger than the Cape. All aboard the over sized SUV and buckled up, our driver provides a very thrilling ride as he wipes this SUV along the winding sand path to the top of the dunes. Once at the top we are able to get out of the SUV and join our driver guide on the history of the sand dunes. Seems that way back when it was a big logging are for lumber to support the fast growing city of Chicago. The problem is, the loggers strip the timber and never re-planted new trees. With the trees gone, there was nothing to prevent the loam from being blown away leaving sand to be carried inland creating Michigan's beautiful sandy beaches and these massive sand dunes; some as high as seven hundred feet.

On our return to the Saugatuck Village we take a different road that travels alongside the channel we used the day before. I have to share this with you, more so I don't forget. We run across this little shop the offer for rent small boats that have been restored to there 60's vintage. They are so cool. I later learn that the old outboard engines all have been converted to battery powered. For anyone who ever

had an outboard motor in the 60's you know very well that they are not very dependable. Not back then, certainly not now.

Ludington,MI to Muskegon,MI September 7,2018

Well...we are finally finding the time to catch up on our blog.  We can't believe how far behind we are.  Man how time flies.  We are working our way north up the east coast of Florida to complete our Loop.  We have been sitting in Fort Pierce for the last week and a half because we had a starter motor burn up, so the engine wouldn't start.  We hope to be on our way soon.  We will keep you updated the best we can with special reports along the way.


September 7-10, 2018

After hanging out in Ludington for four days waiting for the wind and waves on Lake Michigan to subside, we are once again ready to continue our adventure. Our next port, only 50 miles to the south, will be Muskegon, MI. When it's only a short run like today we get a bit lazy with a later departure time.

Lake Michigan Shore Line

Once we maneuver out of the harbor and beyond the breakwaters the day is nice and sunny and, better yet, relatively calm based on the winds of the past few day. Seems when the wind is active for a few days it takes the lake a day or so to calm down. Our ride to Muskegon was nice, just over 3 1/2 hours. The entrance to Muskegon begins with another breakwater followed by a narrow canal that takes us past the old US Coast Guard Station. Now, it's some type of lake research facilities. The last point of interest on this canal that's about 3/4 mile long is the WWII submarine, USS Silversides.  More about that a bit later.

Once we exited the canal we are now in Muskegon Lake, with about a 2 mile run to our marina . Here we plan to spend a few days because the winds out on Lake Michigan are predicted to pick-up once again to 15-20 miles per hours. This marina is again very big and there are only 2 other loopers here. Once docked and hooked up and settled in for a few days time to get the bikes off the bow and hit them with a good dose of WD-40.  They just sit in the weather and rust, much worse if around saltwater!

With the bikes all lubed up, I decide to do a bit of exploring and head in the direction of the inlet we just cruised through a short time ago. The bike is working well, shifting through the gears and providing me with some much needed exercise. Exercise, something that is not as plentiful as I had planned for our Loop journey.

The first thing I come upon is the Muskegon beach. This beach is so big and flat that they have these big signs marking the various sections of the beach so as to give bathers a reference point to where they have their towel or parked the car. Across from the beach is a steady line of what appears to be a mix of summer cottages and year-round homes. Towards the end of the road it takes a turn and begins to parallel the canal that connects Lake Michigan with Muskegon Lake.  My little bike ride was more or less an reconnaissance mission to check out the area and terrain, just to be sure it's acceptable with Lou Ann.

The next several days we set out to visit some of the sights in the area. Muskegon is in full preparation for a BIG Irish festival scheduled for the next weekend. One day we boarded our bikes and traveled in the opposite direction of the beach to the local farmers market down town. Lou Ann just loves these farmers market and this one was one of the biggest we have visited. About a 2.5 mile bike ride, each way, mostly along the lake front on a nicely paved bike path. Our little bike trip ended at the farmers market only a short distance off the bike path and was in full swing complete with entertainment. We walked and shopped and bought more than I ever thought we could carry back on the bikes. Have to hand it to Lou Ann, she brought some shopping bags and backpacks and was able to pack all our fresh purchases so as not to bruised anything. Have to say I felt a little like a pack mule. In the end we got back with the mother load of fresh produce and not one blemished peach! Oh, by the way, the fresh peach shortcake was wonderful especially with the homemade baked shortcakes aboard Zoey's Adventure. We lack for nothing aboard our little ship.

On another day we decided to visit the submarine Silversides, along with the museum. This WWII sub saw a lot of action in the Pacific Theater. It was credited with the sinking of 23 confirmed enemy ships and cargo ships. It was by far one of the most successful submarines during the war. We boarded our bikes, no Uber for us, and off to visit the USS Silversides. As we were purchasing our admission tickets a guided tour was just about to begin so we joined in. As luck would have it our little tour group had two former submariners.  This got the attention of our tour guide and I am sure we got a bit more info because of these two. The tour began with a briefing ashore and a good  guided /narrated tour aboard the sub that lasted the better part of an hour. Another bit of info on WWII subs: The Silversides was built in California, and I did not know that some subs where built in Michigan. The Michigan subs where designed to have their conning towers removed so when the sub was placed on a barge and shipped down the same river system we will cruise in October 2018. With the conning tower removed the new sub and barge could make it under the rail and auto bridges. Once the new sub arrived at its destination New Orleans,  the tower was re-installed and the sub was ready for action.

USS Silversides

With still time to kill in Muskegon, I chose to again take my bike along the bike path in the same direction as the farmer market to yet another WWII ship, USS LST 393. This was so cool, I boarded through the bow or landing ramp. Once inside I was on my own to visit pretty much the entire ship. The ship has been well cared for with fresh paint and seemingly good maintenance all provided by local volunteers. I was able to see the forward deck, command bridge, officers & crew quarters, galley, engine room and even a peek at the rudder compartment. The main inside open deck is now a floating museum dedicated to those who served aboard as well as other local service personal. Lou Ann had had enough navy ships so she chose to stay aboard Zoey's Adventure. LST for those that are interested stands for Landing Ship Tank.

Bow Landing Ramp

Bridge

Galley

Frankfort, MI

September 2, 2018

After spending most of Labor Day weekend in Charlevoix, MI, we find its time to continue down Lake Michigan to our next port. One of the fun things about doing the Great Loop is that everyday we move the boat is a new adventure and a new discovery!

Today is no exception as we have planned to make a stop at one of the favorite ports of the Loopers Lake Michigan list; Leland, MI. Leland once was a little fishing village that over time has become more of a destination for both boaters and land visitors with many little shops and restaurants.

When we left Charlevoix the weather was good; calm winds and overcast skies and in general a good maritime forecast all the way to Leland. As we approached Leland we decided to push on to the next port; Frankfort, MI. Just as a point of information, all along Michigan's eastern shore there is a safe harbor about every twenty-five miles. The weather for the most part was much the same as when we left Charlevoix, still overcast but the wind had picked up a bit. After a brief discussion we made a joint decision to continue to Frankfort. BAD decision. The next twenty miles were bad. The skies cleared and the wind picked up to 15-20 knots and the waves where running 4-5 feet. Boy did Zoey's Adventure get a taste of rough water.

As we slugged our way to Frankfort, I was dropping our speed down to a point where as we approached the harbor entrance we were only making 6 knots. We started out at 18 knots.

At Frankfort, we stopped at the fuel dock then to our slip and docking our boat in strong winds is not something for the faint of heart. Once docked we walked both sides of Main St. and all the way to the end where the beach is. Boy, does Michigan have some truly beautiful beaches.  No seaweed, no rocks, no shells to cut your feet and just pure light tan powder sand that stretches from the parking area all the way out into the water. After our roller coaster ride today, we licked our wounds and enjoyed dinner aboard. For three years in planning this adventure I have continually heard to be cautious on the Great Lakes because the water conditions can change rapidly and that's just what happened today. Lesson learned, check the weather forecast often and abide by it.

That night we both checked and rechecked the weather for the next day. The report was favorable so we decide to make the next hop to Ludington, MI. Quick point; one of our weather checks is none other than the local Connecticut TV station, NBC app . Surprisingly this App offers weather forecast for just about every city and town in the USA and as accurate as a weather forecast can be, it's pretty good.

Ludington, Michigan

September 3, 2018

Kind of a short run today with only 45 miles to cover so no rush to leave the dock. We check  and re-checked the morning forecasts and except for overcast skies we should have a smooth ride to our next port. Gotta tell you, I would rather run in heavy fog than get beat up in rough water! Oh, and one other thing, in yesterday's rough ride, yes, we only experienced one casualty . The printer got tossed onto the deck and suffered a catastrophic misalignment. Time for a new printer.

The three hour run to Ludington was as planned, a nice day. Our Ludington marina is only a short walk from the Main Street so that made it convenient. Our slip was in a prime location. We docked bow in to the dock with our aft deck facing out to the harbor thus allowing us a nice scenic view.  This was so true because every night at 7:00 pm the  S/S Badger comes into the harbor returning from Manitowoc,Wisconsin. Quick note on Manitowoc. This is where the Russian Sputnik crashed into the street on May 14, 1960 and is celebrated every year.

Anyway back to the Badger: It is the last coal fired passenger ferry in the USA. It was built in Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin, launched September 6, 1952 (my baby brother was only 2 years old) is 410 feet long and can cruise at 21 knots and carries 620 passengers, 180 vehicle including big trucks and buses. But the best part is when it returns to Ludington Harbor and docks,.  As it makes its way to the pier it will drop one of it's massive bow anchors and pivot on this anchor and turn this 410 foot ship 180 degrees then proceed to back alongside the pier all the time dragging this anchor. Each evening folks gather in the park across from the ferry to watch this very unique docking exercise.

 M/V The Badger

M/V The Badger at night. View from our aft deck.  Looks like a hotel.












It turns out we stayed four nights in Ludington because the wind just howled for four days and there was no way we were going out with horrible conditions on Lake Michigan. As it turned out we were not alone. In the other marina, just a short walk from ours, there were about 20 other Looper boats also avoiding the rough water conditions on Lake Michigan. So when there are that many Loopers in one place at one time it is surly time for Docktails. At 5 pm  Lou Ann and I went to the other marina's clubhouse. We were the first two to arrive and then they just kept coming and coming each with a snack to share and there own beverage. In the end there was about 20 of us.  All gathered in this small room we took turns introducing ourselves; name, boat name and home-port. Some of the Loopers we have run into before but most we were meeting for the first-time so exchanging boat-cards was a must. After and even before the introductions the "Tails of the Seas" begin. Turns out in the end we all had a nice time meeting old and new Loopers.

 Lake Barge, went by daily

Had to stop at Cops and Doughnuts to try the bakery items.













During our extended stay , Lou Ann got her nails done, I got a haircut, whats left if it. We also, had to get a new printer at Walmart, get my hearing aid fixed (got a little story to tell you later) got Lou Ann's cell phone fixed. We were able to accomplish all these errands with the generous use of our Looper Harbor Host's vehicle. The Harbor Host keeps their boat on the next pier from Zoey's Adventure. The Harbor Host also stopped by our boat the first afternoon and said hello and offered a little welcome bag of goodies. Four days in one harbor was a bit long but we had to wait for the winds to lay down. What we did accomplish during our extended stay was to talk with Loopers and other boaters as to what ports we should consider as we cruise down Lake Michigan and eventually to Hammond, Indiana.

Oh my little back story. When I got my hearing aid fixed the service tech asked me where I was from and next thing I find out he is a boater and looking to cruise the Great Loop in a few years. Needless to say my short service call got stretched out. Often, mostly at the marinas we have been staying at, we run into other boaters looking to do the Loop and asking us questions.

Charleviox, Michigan

August 30 - September 2, 2018

Wow, it seems like a long time since we moved Zoey's Adventure. The fact is we arrived in Mackinaw City on August 26th and here it is August 30th, five days later and back on the adventure.

Once again the weather is cooperating with sunny skies and light wind. Our course today will take us under the Mackinac Straits Bridge, the 5th longest suspension bridge in the world. The bridge is 12,372 feet long and is the longest suspension bridge in the northern hemisphere. Our destination is Charlevoix, Michigan. This run is 48 miles and will take us just under four hours at our cruise speed.

Today we make our way around the tip of the Michigan peninsula and making our turn south and our trip down Lake Michigan. Since we left Kent Narrows, Maryland on Memorial day we have traveled north and west today the compass is reading south.

Charlevoix! Well, let me tell you just how beautiful this little harbor is. Wow! It's surrounded by some magnificent homes some with boat houses that are so big that the owner is able to dock his yacht inside behind these hugh garage doors. Not just one boat but sometimes two big yachts! The little village offers many nice little shops and restaurants and during the summer months, free concerts on Thursday nights. The village is loaded with flowers and beautiful green lawns that stretch from the main street to the waterfront and the town marina.

The marina reservations in Michigan are controlled by a central reservation system. When we need dockage we go online and make a request for a slip at the marina we are looking to stay at. Based on the dates and size of boat we get a reply indicating there is a slip open and book and pay online. Our plan was to spend three nights here as it was Labor Day weekend and take in the sights. Lou Ann found this little tour of the "Mushroom Houses".  Yes Mushroom. I asked what's that? Turns out to be really quite interesting. We joined this tour that is conducted aboard a four passenger electric cart driven by our driver guide. Seems this very famous builder/architect, Earl Young, self taught, built some very unique homes that are today both privately owned with some as summer rentals.

As I write about Charlevoix, I am having difficulty finding the best words to describe how beautiful this village is. It's kind of like Nantucket with the marina being at the village center but not so high end uppity and it's like our Mystic but a bit larger. Hope the pictures will show better what I can not describe.