Frankfort, MI

September 2, 2018

After spending most of Labor Day weekend in Charlevoix, MI, we find its time to continue down Lake Michigan to our next port. One of the fun things about doing the Great Loop is that everyday we move the boat is a new adventure and a new discovery!

Today is no exception as we have planned to make a stop at one of the favorite ports of the Loopers Lake Michigan list; Leland, MI. Leland once was a little fishing village that over time has become more of a destination for both boaters and land visitors with many little shops and restaurants.

When we left Charlevoix the weather was good; calm winds and overcast skies and in general a good maritime forecast all the way to Leland. As we approached Leland we decided to push on to the next port; Frankfort, MI. Just as a point of information, all along Michigan's eastern shore there is a safe harbor about every twenty-five miles. The weather for the most part was much the same as when we left Charlevoix, still overcast but the wind had picked up a bit. After a brief discussion we made a joint decision to continue to Frankfort. BAD decision. The next twenty miles were bad. The skies cleared and the wind picked up to 15-20 knots and the waves where running 4-5 feet. Boy did Zoey's Adventure get a taste of rough water.

As we slugged our way to Frankfort, I was dropping our speed down to a point where as we approached the harbor entrance we were only making 6 knots. We started out at 18 knots.

At Frankfort, we stopped at the fuel dock then to our slip and docking our boat in strong winds is not something for the faint of heart. Once docked we walked both sides of Main St. and all the way to the end where the beach is. Boy, does Michigan have some truly beautiful beaches.  No seaweed, no rocks, no shells to cut your feet and just pure light tan powder sand that stretches from the parking area all the way out into the water. After our roller coaster ride today, we licked our wounds and enjoyed dinner aboard. For three years in planning this adventure I have continually heard to be cautious on the Great Lakes because the water conditions can change rapidly and that's just what happened today. Lesson learned, check the weather forecast often and abide by it.

That night we both checked and rechecked the weather for the next day. The report was favorable so we decide to make the next hop to Ludington, MI. Quick point; one of our weather checks is none other than the local Connecticut TV station, NBC app . Surprisingly this App offers weather forecast for just about every city and town in the USA and as accurate as a weather forecast can be, it's pretty good.

Ludington, Michigan

September 3, 2018

Kind of a short run today with only 45 miles to cover so no rush to leave the dock. We check  and re-checked the morning forecasts and except for overcast skies we should have a smooth ride to our next port. Gotta tell you, I would rather run in heavy fog than get beat up in rough water! Oh, and one other thing, in yesterday's rough ride, yes, we only experienced one casualty . The printer got tossed onto the deck and suffered a catastrophic misalignment. Time for a new printer.

The three hour run to Ludington was as planned, a nice day. Our Ludington marina is only a short walk from the Main Street so that made it convenient. Our slip was in a prime location. We docked bow in to the dock with our aft deck facing out to the harbor thus allowing us a nice scenic view.  This was so true because every night at 7:00 pm the  S/S Badger comes into the harbor returning from Manitowoc,Wisconsin. Quick note on Manitowoc. This is where the Russian Sputnik crashed into the street on May 14, 1960 and is celebrated every year.

Anyway back to the Badger: It is the last coal fired passenger ferry in the USA. It was built in Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin, launched September 6, 1952 (my baby brother was only 2 years old) is 410 feet long and can cruise at 21 knots and carries 620 passengers, 180 vehicle including big trucks and buses. But the best part is when it returns to Ludington Harbor and docks,.  As it makes its way to the pier it will drop one of it's massive bow anchors and pivot on this anchor and turn this 410 foot ship 180 degrees then proceed to back alongside the pier all the time dragging this anchor. Each evening folks gather in the park across from the ferry to watch this very unique docking exercise.

 M/V The Badger

M/V The Badger at night. View from our aft deck.  Looks like a hotel.












It turns out we stayed four nights in Ludington because the wind just howled for four days and there was no way we were going out with horrible conditions on Lake Michigan. As it turned out we were not alone. In the other marina, just a short walk from ours, there were about 20 other Looper boats also avoiding the rough water conditions on Lake Michigan. So when there are that many Loopers in one place at one time it is surly time for Docktails. At 5 pm  Lou Ann and I went to the other marina's clubhouse. We were the first two to arrive and then they just kept coming and coming each with a snack to share and there own beverage. In the end there was about 20 of us.  All gathered in this small room we took turns introducing ourselves; name, boat name and home-port. Some of the Loopers we have run into before but most we were meeting for the first-time so exchanging boat-cards was a must. After and even before the introductions the "Tails of the Seas" begin. Turns out in the end we all had a nice time meeting old and new Loopers.

 Lake Barge, went by daily

Had to stop at Cops and Doughnuts to try the bakery items.













During our extended stay , Lou Ann got her nails done, I got a haircut, whats left if it. We also, had to get a new printer at Walmart, get my hearing aid fixed (got a little story to tell you later) got Lou Ann's cell phone fixed. We were able to accomplish all these errands with the generous use of our Looper Harbor Host's vehicle. The Harbor Host keeps their boat on the next pier from Zoey's Adventure. The Harbor Host also stopped by our boat the first afternoon and said hello and offered a little welcome bag of goodies. Four days in one harbor was a bit long but we had to wait for the winds to lay down. What we did accomplish during our extended stay was to talk with Loopers and other boaters as to what ports we should consider as we cruise down Lake Michigan and eventually to Hammond, Indiana.

Oh my little back story. When I got my hearing aid fixed the service tech asked me where I was from and next thing I find out he is a boater and looking to cruise the Great Loop in a few years. Needless to say my short service call got stretched out. Often, mostly at the marinas we have been staying at, we run into other boaters looking to do the Loop and asking us questions.

Charleviox, Michigan

August 30 - September 2, 2018

Wow, it seems like a long time since we moved Zoey's Adventure. The fact is we arrived in Mackinaw City on August 26th and here it is August 30th, five days later and back on the adventure.

Once again the weather is cooperating with sunny skies and light wind. Our course today will take us under the Mackinac Straits Bridge, the 5th longest suspension bridge in the world. The bridge is 12,372 feet long and is the longest suspension bridge in the northern hemisphere. Our destination is Charlevoix, Michigan. This run is 48 miles and will take us just under four hours at our cruise speed.

Today we make our way around the tip of the Michigan peninsula and making our turn south and our trip down Lake Michigan. Since we left Kent Narrows, Maryland on Memorial day we have traveled north and west today the compass is reading south.

Charlevoix! Well, let me tell you just how beautiful this little harbor is. Wow! It's surrounded by some magnificent homes some with boat houses that are so big that the owner is able to dock his yacht inside behind these hugh garage doors. Not just one boat but sometimes two big yachts! The little village offers many nice little shops and restaurants and during the summer months, free concerts on Thursday nights. The village is loaded with flowers and beautiful green lawns that stretch from the main street to the waterfront and the town marina.

The marina reservations in Michigan are controlled by a central reservation system. When we need dockage we go online and make a request for a slip at the marina we are looking to stay at. Based on the dates and size of boat we get a reply indicating there is a slip open and book and pay online. Our plan was to spend three nights here as it was Labor Day weekend and take in the sights. Lou Ann found this little tour of the "Mushroom Houses".  Yes Mushroom. I asked what's that? Turns out to be really quite interesting. We joined this tour that is conducted aboard a four passenger electric cart driven by our driver guide. Seems this very famous builder/architect, Earl Young, self taught, built some very unique homes that are today both privately owned with some as summer rentals.

As I write about Charlevoix, I am having difficulty finding the best words to describe how beautiful this village is. It's kind of like Nantucket with the marina being at the village center but not so high end uppity and it's like our Mystic but a bit larger. Hope the pictures will show better what I can not describe.

BREAKING NEWS!!!!!!!!

                                    BREAKING NEWS

November 14, 2018

We wanted to let everyone know that we have made it to Mobile, AL. With the weather being so bad for the last week, we choose to run two long days of 100 miles each instead of four 50 mile days where we would have to anchor out with no heat.  While we watched the weather after we arrived, we saw that it is the coldest day, in Mobile, for November 14 ever at 40 degrees, feels like 34.

 The Captain with his winter coat, which he bought at Walmart while we were in Grafton, IL.  He also had on his warm fuzzy slippers with a hot pack on top of his toes.  the first mate had on 2 fleeze jackets, gloves, fuzzy slippers and a blanket over her lap.

Lovely Mobile, AL in the cold, mist, rain and wind.  Hopefully we can get better pictures as the week goes on.  Suppose to be 70 degrees by Sunday.










We will be staying at Turner Marina, for about 1 week, to unwind and do a little sightseeing.

Stay tuned as we fill in the blanks of our adventures from Northern Michigan to Mobile, AL.  A 2 1/2 month journey.  We promise that we will catch up.  Hopefully the wifi  is half way decent here.

The freezing cold Captain and First Mate.

 

Northern Michigan

August 28-29, 2018

On the move again.  This time we have decided to leave the boat for a quick trip up to Sault Ste Marie, Canada. That's right we just left Canada a few days ago and now we are once again heading back.

Once we returned from Mackinac Island, we picked up our rental car and drove north to the shores of Lake Superior where we again crossed the border into Sault Ste Marie, Canada. The trip took only about an hour as the speed limit was 75.  The plan was to spend the night in a hotel in Canada so as to be ready for a 8:00 am departure on the Agawa Canyon Railroad.

The next morning up early and breakfast at the hotel, the Holiday Inn Express. The train station is

conveniently located across the street in the mall parking lot. This special train departs daily bound for the scenic Agawa Canyon, 114 miles north of Sault Ste Marie. I was very surprised and pleased to see this was a real Amtrak style train with at least 10 passenger and dining cars and a diesel electric engine at either end.  We were seated in car number 2 and had the enjoyment of  2 double seats, two seats facing each other, so we could stretch out, relax and enjoy the four plus hour ride to the Canyon.

The Agawa Canyon is only accessible by rail. Once we arrived the train stopped to let all the passengers off to walk the trails for the 1 1/2 hour stop. Unfortunately, the weather today was not that good, a bit of rain and clouds. We purchased a box lunch from the snack car with the intention of eating at the picnic area, however all the tables and benches were wet so back to our seat on the train to eat, then off to walk the trails and look at the waterfalls.

One and a quarter hours from the time we arrived at the canyon floor the train whistle sounds that the train departs in 15 minutes.... All Aboard. Must say I love trains and knew about this train for years and always wanted to ride it. In the end it was only OK. Had the weather been better or maybe during foliage time the scenery could have added that little something that was missing.  Who knows? Not saying the day was a loss but it could have been better. We did meet an interesting couple seated next to us that were returning to Ottawa after a 2 plus month camper trip to Alaska. Their adventure took them all the way to the northern coast of Alaska to Prudhoe Bay. That's some ride in a pickup truck with a camper in the bed. The train pulled out of the station at 8:00 am and returned at 5:00 pm, a long day.

 The landscapes of Agawa Canyon

Back in the car to return to Zoey's Adventure that's been docked waiting patiently in Mackinaw City  ready for our departure the next day.

Drummond Island to Mackinaw City, MI

August 26-27, 2018

Well, we are back in the Greatest Country in the World.... USA!!

Today would be a rather long day as far as mileage is concerned, 47 miles but unlike some days where we spent 5-7 hours traveling and only covering 13 miles, today, once away from the dock, it's up to cruise speed and Mackinaw City here we come.

The weather was overcast but dry and with good visibility. Our run would take us about 3 1/2 hours. Once we left Drummond Island we ran down the St. Mary's Shipping Channel that connects Lake Superior with Lake Huron. We'll follow the main shipping channel south to the northern tip of Lake Huron and make a right turn for a straight shot to Mackinaw City, MI. Except for one mid size freighter we passed on the Hudson River back in May, this would be our first experience to share the waterway with these very large ships. Never really that close but never the less you need to keep an eye on these big boys.

Once we made our right turn heading for Lake Michigan the visibility dropped down to maybe 100 yards. Good thing for radar except it's been 10 plus years since we have had to depend on radar to see what was in front or on either side of us.  Fortunately, we used the radar in good weather to become more familiar with this new piece of electronic equipment. Turned out the fog was short lived, only 10-15 minutes and back out in the open.

 Mackinac Island

 Grand Hotel, Mackinac Island.  This is quite a hotel.  Rooms start at $350 per night and at 6:00 pm women are required to wear pant suits or dresses and men are required to wear jacket and tie.  During the day is resort casual.  If you would like to just visit the hotel, there is a $25.00 tour fee or you can have lunch for $50.00.

Coast Guard Cutter Museum, Mackinaw City














Our route today would take us through the Straits of Mackinac, passing directly in front of Mackinac Island.  However, based on a forecast of high winds for the next few days we cruised past the island to Mackinaw City and the city marina. Plan was to spend four nights here and take the high speed ferry to Mackinac Island and spend the next night in a hotel and do the tourist thing. Being as it was my birthday, Lou Ann made dinner reservations at a wonderful waterfront restaurant to celebrate my special day.We walked the streets and checked out the fudge shoppes, 16 in all so we were told, and so many other shops to visit.

 Main Street, Mackinac Island

 This is the local taxi

 View of the Hotel Iroquois where we celebrated Rene's birthday.

Birthday dinner.












he island is truly unique as there are no motor vehicles.  The only means of transportation is to walk, bike, or take a horse drawn carriage. Even the building supply's are delivered by carriage as well as all the food and goods for the shops and restaurants.  Truly an interesting island.  And, yes the busiest man in town is the street sweeper, by the way there is more than one!

The next day we truly enjoyed a delightful horse drawn carriage tour of the island with a very knowledgeable driver before taking the ferry back to the main land.

 This is the owner of the Grand Hotel's private carriage museum.

View down into town

Returning to USA

August 25, 2018

Well, time has come to finally return to the good old USA. We have been in Canada for 60 days, except for a short time when we returned to Mystic in July. The weather today is not the best, light wind  making for calm seas and rain as we get closer to Drummond Island, Michigan. Somewhat of an early departure just before 8:00 am. Our run this morning would be a bit more than 35 miles and take us just about three hours. Being as we are returning into the USA we have to clear US Customs and Immigration. Problem is the US Customs and Boarder Control has closed it's office on Drummond Island....but wait we have that covered with our NEW app called ROAM. The App allows us to enter our name, address, passport information and take a picture of our passport. The app also asked information on our mode of transportation, ie. boat, private plane, snowmobile. As I am entering the information on the boat, make, length, state registration, it seems that when you want to reenter the US with a boat that is more then 30 feet long good old Uncle Sam wants to tax us. The fee is not that bad only $28.00. My interpretation is this is meant for those that make the crossing frequently not just once. When the app asked for boat length I enter 10 feet just to get to the next screen to complete the information required for US Customs.

Once we are in US waters indicated by a line on the chart and we have decent cell service I grab the cell phone and press the Roam app. I receive a message to stand by and within 2 minutes we are connected with a US Customs Agent, she can see us but we can't see her. She then asks all the normal questions - name, address, how long out of the US, purpose of the trip, have any liquor, fruits or vegetables, certain meat products? The agent asked me to give the phone to Lou Ann so she can see that she is the same person on the passport photo and ask her a few question. Of course we answer No to all the questions, however  Zoey's Adventure is, in fact, more like a floating Canadian Farmers Market. Good thing the agent did not ask to see the inside of the refrigerator or the plants Lou Ann stashed on the deck out of the view of the cellphone. The agent then asks to speak with yours-truly and ask me about the 10 foot boat...busted! The agent says "your not really on a ten foot boat are you"? I explain my reasoning and she nicely tells me to apply for the tax decal once we get into Drummond Island and send her the number, no big deal all they want is the money.

In all it only took less than ten minutes to clear US Customs. The agent welcomed us home and gave us a confirmation number and we continued our final run into the docks at Drummond Island Yacht Haven. This final leg was in moderate rain as we picked our way through the last three miles, first time to rely on our radar to identify the channel markers.

Boaters note: this marina is not as big as some we have stayed at however they specialize in indoor storage. There are 5 big aircraft hanger style buildings, 4 are about as wide as a football field and maybe half the length of a football field. The 5th and newest is the size of a football field. Here in Michigan and in Canada most of the boats stored for winter are inside in these heated building. No need to winterize the boat or cover it. I now know why most all the boats I have seen in the north country look so nice. Most boats are only outside in freshwater and in the weather 4 1/2 mouths a year.  The rest of the time they are inside protected from the elements.

North Channel Part 2

We want to start by saying we are sorry for such a long delay.  There does not seem to be enough hours in the day and the wifi has not been good, but there are no excuses.

Just for an update, as of today, 10/07/18, we are in Peoria, IL on the Illinois River.  We plan on heading out tomorrow and will take us 2 days to get to Grafton, IL, right at the confluence of the Mississippi River. We will be on the Mississippi for 2 days before heading north east onto the Ohio River. Then on to the Cumberland River, to the Tennessee River then the Tenn-Tom Waterway to Mobile, AL and the Gulf of Mexico.  Should take about 2 weeks but cannot arrive in Mobile before Nov. 1st because of insurance.

So now back to where we left off........

August 22-24, 2018

After meeting with Roy, Harbor Host for the North Channel a few days ago, we decide the weather looks favorable to set off for a short run to the north side of the North Channel where we are told are some very beautiful anchorages. Roy had pointed out some coves and small bays to consider based on the wind prediction for the next couple days, so off we go. Our destination would be South Benjamin Island. Upon arrival after a short one plus hour cruise, we did find the anchorage very beautiful with steep rock walls.  As we slowly made our way in we saw 2 power boats and a couple of sailboats already anchored. Once we surveyed the remaining spots to anchor Zoey's Adventure, we decided there was just not enough room for us to swing without getting to close to the other boats. As it's getting a bit late and the wind is beginning to pickup we did not feel comfortable looking for an alternate anchorage knowing if we had a problem setting the anchor we then would be pressed for time to make a safe harbor before dark. With this thought in mind it would be best to make a run to Gore Bay and the marina where we know we will be tied to a secure dock.

This was in the park next to the marina.  These chairs seem to be a big hit all over Canada.

This is the view of the marina and the beautiful views.


Turns out that Gore Bay offered a nice town run dock complete with good Wi-Fi. As luck would have it we met another Looper in Gore Bay that also decided not to stay in the Benjamins and made the run to Gore Bay.  Problem was he waited too long and had a very rough ride to the point where his wife was very sea sick!  We would end up staying 2 days here waiting for the winds to die down to make our next leg to Meldrum Bay.



August 24, 2018

Oh what an early start for us, up and at em, with a 7:26 AM departure from Gore Bay. Weather was overcast but no wind so the North Channel was nice and calm this morning. It's been our past experience that sea conditions, are for the most part, more favorable in the early daylight hours as opposed to afternoon. This was the case this morning. Once away from the dock we are able to get Zoey's Adventure up to her comfortable and economical 16 knot cruising speed. Two hours later, after a nice flat ride, we are making our approach in to the next navigable port, Meldrum Bay. Plan was to get tied up and have breakfast on shore. Oh well , there are only two places to eat. The Meldrum Bay Inn, a B&B, that is not open to non guest except for dinner and the other little place next-door doesn't open until noon and the little store/post-office only had frozen breakfast sandwiches. Back to the boat for a hot home-cooked breakfast. Never ceases to amaze me what Lou Ann can come up with from that galley, the best ham and egg sandwich! Plan was to spend one night here and the next day make the run to Drummond Island and the good old USA.

Fish eye view of Meldrum Bay Marina.  Not sure what happened with the camera.














Seeing as we still had some Canadian currency we would enjoy dinner at the Meldrum Bay Inn. Reservations for 6:30 pm and we were one of only three other couples in the dining room.  It was too cool to eat on the porch with the humming birds. At dinner there was another boater couple we chatted with and shared with them what we heard and knew about the Bear incident on Heywood Island, an area they where headed towards. Another couple at the table next to us overheard our bear conversation and asked more about it. Turns out this couple was on vacation for a week at the B&B and was very interested in our boat and our journey. We ended up talking with them and sharing our boating adventure. This would be our last night in Canada before returning to the USA. We entered  Kingston, Ontario, Canada on June 25, 2018 and tomorrow it will be August 25, 2018. 60 days in Canada and must say the time has just slipped by so quickly. We traveled the Trent-Severn Waterway, cruised Georgian Bay and although did not see and experience, North Channel like we wanted to it's been one helluva trip so far!

One last thought mostly for our boating friends,we have traveled almost 1400 miles... we never damaged a prop, gently touched bottom 3 time and have not had one mechanical issue .... I am sure I will eat those word soon. It's a boat and made to break !